Architecture

Katsuoji Temple

In the densely wooded, quiet hills north of Osaka lies Katsuoji Temple. In contrast to the restlessness of urban life, time seems to stand still here. The prevailing tranquillity reinforces the feeling of crossing a threshold into inner contemplation: longings, hopes and dreams are projected here onto the countless small and large red Daruma figures for which Katsuō-ji is so well known. In this place, they gaze with their one seeing eye towards the fulfilment of their destiny and the course of events.

Daruma dolls are no ordinary lucky charms. They are symbols of resilience, hope and personal transformation. Based on the legend of the Buddhist monk Bodhidharma, who meditated for nine years until his limbs became paralysed, Daruma dolls represent perseverance. Their spherical shape allows them to stand up again and again if they fall over – a symbol of never giving up.
At Katsuō-ji, Daruma dolls become more than mere symbols. Here, visitors buy a Daruma doll, paint one eye and place it somewhere in the temple with a personal wish. The unpainted second circle remains empty – a reminder that success is still pending and that one must work hard to fulfil one's dream. Only when the goal has been achieved, the wish fulfilled or the desire realised is the second eye painted. The Daruma is then often returned to the temple, which can be seen as a triumphant ritual.

‘Katsuō-ji’ literally means ‘Temple of Victory’. The name goes back to an old legend in which an emperor prayed here for success in war and won. Since then, the temple has become a refuge for people who are fighting their own battles – whether in their careers, love lives or personal challenges.
Small and large Daruma dolls stand throughout the temple, some fresh, others faded by rain and time. Each one tells a story: of a goal, a dream, a struggle. Together, they remind us that the path to victory is often lonely, but that we are never alone in our endeavours.

Katsuoji Temple is a place to pause and reflect. The gentle sound of wind chimes, the rustling green of the trees and the fixed gaze of the Daruma dolls remind us that defeats are just part of the process, that they are part of life and must be overcome. Giving up or losing hope are no options. True victory lies in perseverance.
Here, in the hills of Osaka, where the city is just a distant whisper, one message remains: every dream requires patience, and every fall holds the chance to get back up again – just like the Daruma.

Japan, November 2024. | All words and photos by The Sturgheons.