City TRIP
Tokyo
We’ve arrived. Arrived in Tokyo. Arrived in the tireless heart of Japan, where garish neon lights are reflected in building facades, puddles and city lights. Where colourful stickers and stylish street art make the already hip streetscape seem even hipper. Where stylish pop-up shops carve out a place for themselves amongst large shopping centres and small Izakayas. And where Kawaii and Wabi-Sabi are as much a natural part of the cityscape as the blend of vintage and cutting-edge modernity.
Chapter 1: Chiyoda City With a coffee in one hand and a camera in the other, we set off, letting ourselves drift from the hustle and bustle to a quieter pace. Amidst glittering glass facades, the Oedo Antique Market opens up a window into the past. Small stalls – packed tightly together – display items that have lost their value and significance to their owners and are now waiting to find a new home. Countless treasure hunters bustle and jostle around crockery, fabrics, toys, clothes, pictures, prints and all manner of handicrafts. And there we are, right in the thick of it. We stroll, pause, look closely, handle items gently, move on and stop again. Old kimonos, fragile bowls and colourful prints, whose stories we can only guess at, catch our eye. It feels as though we’re not just shopping, but collecting: Moments. Fragments. Time. And perhaps a little piece of Tokyo to take home with us.
Chapter 2: Minato CityIn the stylish Azabudai Hills shopping centre, we once again immerse ourselves in the enchanting world of TeamLab Borderless. We lose ourselves in space and time as streams of coloured light cascade down the walls, gather together and suddenly vanish into the deepest black. Whimsical figures react to our footsteps, to our proximity, to us. So we slow our pace and fall in step with the rhythm of hopping rabbits, dancing frogs and oxen pulling carts. And as colourful petals rain down over our faces and bodies, we suddenly find ourselves amidst a changing of the seasons, accompanied by music tailored to the scene. We quieten down and let the shimmering, the sounds and the dancing all around us work their magic.
Chapter 3: Koto CityThings are noticeably louder and more playful at the Unko Museum Tokyo. Unko? Yes, exactly: Poo! Here it becomes clear just how deeply rooted the desire is in Japanese society to find something cute in everything. And what isn’t there is created. In this case, it’s simply cute piles of poo. Loud. Colourful. Childish. Completely over the top. And that’s exactly why it’s so good. We laugh more than we imagined. Perhaps also because we didn’t expect poo to be this much fun.
Chapter 4: DaikanyamaThis chic neighbourhood surprises us with its elegant designer boutiques, stylish cafés and sophisticated bookshops. The vibe here is decidedly more grown-up, yet thanks to the relaxed atmosphere, we quickly feel at home here too, slowing down, shopping and feasting. As we do so, we observe the people with appropriate discretion, admiring their understated style and their intuition for minimalist aesthetics and timeless design. Perhaps the most compelling evidence of this is provided by the Officine Universelle de Buly shops: Here, everyday beauty products are celebrated with great care and presented in a highly individual way. It’s a concept that leaves a lasting impression on us.
Chapter 5: MeguroIn Meguro, things become even quieter and slower-paced. Now, in autumn, the cherry trees that bloom so profusely in spring stand in understated leafless splendour. And so, there is now nothing to be seen or felt of the springtime hustle and bustle. Here on the Meguro River, low-rise residential buildings stand alongside small shops offering all manner of discoveries, from fashion to interior design. And here, too, you tend to stumble upon cafés rather than actively seek them out.
Chapter 6: Shibuya At the end of our trip, we check into a hotel in the heart of Shibuya. Perfectly situated near Cat Street, with all its stylish, trendy and cool shops, we’re staying at the Trunk Hotel. This is our second time here, so we’re familiar with the neighbourhood and the hustle and bustle of the streets. Shibuya feels both familiar and like home. So we follow our ‘traditional’ route, having breakfast at Bills and dinner at Harajuku Okonomiyaki Yai Yai. We stroll through Yoyogi Park and then squeeze our way through Takeshita Street. We wander through Omotesando Hills and strike poses with funny accessories in the colourful photo booths near Shibuya Crossing.
For us, travelling around Tokyo means having seen and understood a little more of this vast metropolis. And so we take away more than just products, gifts and souvenirs. We take home memorable moments and enriching inspiration. And a feeling of being both overwhelmed and completely calm and happy at the same time.
Japan, November 2024. | All words and photos by The Sturgheons.